As I promised in my last two posts about weekend in Banat, here is the highlight of our trip. We are in Zrenjanin, 13th Ivo Lole Ribara Street.
Pin’s villa was built in 1894 as a French style castle by Budapest’s architect Laslo Djalush for Leon Shtegervald. It is Eclecticism at it’s best with Gothic and Romanticism elements. Two years later, Ferenc Danijel buys it and he owns it until 1919, when certain Marko Bakalič bought it. In the meantime, the villa becomes property of the association of farmers, merchants and industrialists. The sixth owner, buy who’s name it is still called was surveyor Paja Pin who bought it in 1928. The German occupiers moved out the Pin family and ever since it changed many “owners”.
In 1967, Villa becomes part of a nearby medical center as a Tuberculosis Clinic. By the end of the last century it was deserted for good, as a highway was build through a park that connected the house to the hospital. This is when the house got it’s new tenants– rats, homeless people, junkies, alcoholics, sects and God knows what else. Few years ago, the authorities locked it.
I know this is trespassing, but I really had to go inside. My best birthday ever!
Before the lock down, certain “artists” held here an exhibition and wrote the instructions on using the house. They also drew some “art”. Those directions seemed quite cool to me at the time I was inside, but, now, knowing the sad history of the house, I can’t help but be angry.
This exhibition was a part of the project “Contrasts in Our Society” that begun in October 2004. Project leaders were Jelena Vukmanović and Éva Soltész. You two, shame on you! Pointing out to devastation by more devastation
It is so sad what will certain people do in order to get attention. The homeless people who burned the stairway were cold and in need, but they were not. Shame on you! Did I already say that?
“Dear visitors, please, do not hesitate to dispose of your bodily wastes or devastate the museum in any way, as that is this building’s purpose.”
“This museum is dedicated to all of them who made this city a place everyone wants to leave. To all of them who say our city is a – dead city.”
“During the summer of 2002, homeless people who found shelter in here, used the stairway as a heating fuel. The authorities moved them out and locked the house, only after the “tenants” removed the parquet also.”
I kept thinking how that receptionist guy forgot to mention about the house
“Going down to the basement is not recommended —>”
An old postcard of Pin’s Villa. (Thanks Alex_ZR)
Cigar Cookies
(recipe as written in Pata’s cookbook)
In a bowl mix 200 g sugar, add 200 g ground lady fingers biscuits, 150 g flour, a pinch of cinnamon, 3 eggs and knead everything well. Shape dough into cigar sized cylinders. With a pastry brush spread beaten egg over and then roll into a mixture of fine crystal sugar and cinnamon. Bake on low fire.
Note: The measurements were OK. I divided the dough into two batches and the one that baked perfectly was in a preheated oven on 180°C for 10 minutes.
16 Comments
I have really enjoyed your commentary Marija during your time in Banat. I had goosebumps as you talked about the sounds coming from the basement. I don’t blame you for not going down there; however it sounds to me like you regret it a little. Thanks for taking me to a place where so many people from the west simply could not comprehend.
ja sam se sva naježila od ove priče :))
Koja avantura i uzbudljiva priča.:) I mene su strašno razljutili ti “umjetnici” koji se bore protiv devastacije novom devastacijom… ccc. Tužno je stvarno vidjeti jedno tako lijepo zdanje, potpuno napušteno i derutno. Nadam se, stvarno, da će gradske vlasti vidjeti da od te kuće mogu imati puno više koristi ako je obnovljena te da će to i učiniti. Kolačići su predivni, a fotografije baš imaju neki štih prošlih vremena. Valjda zbog tanjurića!
OMG Your story is amazing !!!! I love the house and I wish it’s mine so I could restore it and breathe a new life to it. It would be also great to have it as a part of bed and breakfast and art gallery. WOWI never visited Zrenjanin but this summer I will be in Serbia so please tell me if I can just go there or I have to ask someone? Puno pozdrava,Mirjana
Do you ever look at much art? Often highlighting things like this in an ironic way is exactly the point to it. I don’t think what they did is in any way shameful, I only wish more people could see the place, learn the history of it, and see what they did to express to anyone who might see it how diverse and upsetting the history of the place is.
@Andera – znala sam da će ti se svideti Tanjirići su ko zna od kada, moja baka ih je zato što su “out i stari” odnela u vikendicu još pre nego što sam se rodila :)@Mirjana – Ulaz u kuću je zabranjen. Ko uđe radi to na svoju odgovornost.@mylittlestitches – You are absolutely right! I never look at any art and I just rant about things I don’t know ;)
znala sam da ce me oduseviti drugi dio price! a kolacici su predivni!!
oh Marija, i found your blog through foodgawker.i must say, i was absolutely captivated by the photos and the commentary that you provided of your visit to pin’s villa. it’s absolutely beautiful, even now. like you, i hope that one day, the rightful owners find it and restore it to its rightful beauty. thank you for the translations of the writings on the wall.and that cigar cookie looks fabulous – i now SO wish to make that :).
A pity that this beautiful house is left in that way! Thanks for the interesting visit!What pretty and delicious looking cookies!cheers,Rosa
That's a goosebumpy house alright Marija…but so beautiful in it's devastated state. There's a 'shiver-me-timbers' feel to it … & the cigar cookies are elegant & just beautiful!
Great tour of the house, my husband would love to buy house that is run down like this, then fix it. It such a beautiful house.Those cigar cookies are really scrumptious, and buttery looking.Cheers,elra
I love your stories a lot, so keep them coming. Happy belated BD to you. Wishing you all the best in your life, dear friend.
Uvijek me stisne oko srca kad vidim ovakve predivne napuštene kuće. Ova iz tvog putopisa je još postala i “žrtvom i svjedokom” u isti mah, kao i poprište raznih nelijepih dogadjanja.Ipak, ne bih se u potpunosti složila s tobom kad su u pitanju ovi grafiti ( kao dio projekta): jedna divna gradjevina propada zbog nebrige i indolencije onih koji bi mogli nešto učiniti, a nitko ne reagira.Zato mislim da je bar i ovakva reakcija, iako obojana crnim cinizmom, bolja od nikakve.Jer ti grafiti nisu toliko opasni za tu kuću, koliko ravnodušnost i ignoriranje njenog stanja.Keksići i kavica, odlični
What an interesting post Marija! It gave me goosebumps too esp the basement. I too wonder if it was happy or sad nt to have gone down there. The house is beautiful and I wish there were fotos of the people who owned it. My kind of adventure.Lucky you!! n the cookies look so beautiful and stylish! I might just make them. Thnx 4 a wonderful post.
Marija, hvala ti puno na posetu. Ja pratim odavno tvoj blog i mislim da je puno interesantan. ja sam iz Temisvara i moj muz je srbin – banatska lala :)), zato mi pricamo srbski jezik. Ako se odlucis da pravis ovaj hleb ja znam sigurno da neces da se kajes ;).
Happy Birthday! I enjoyed reading parts 1 and 2, but this last one is a little too creepy for me. :| I can’t believe you wandered around that house. Gives me the creeps just from the exterior.
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